Thursday, December 6, 2012

Patron Electric Portable Heaters

For Heavy Duty and Professional Use


There are many reasons why you would want to use an electric heater on a job site.  You have no exhaust or ventilation issues to deal with.  You also never need to clean up fuel spills or have fuel odors in the area you are working.  Electric heaters are 100% efficient and environmentally GREEN.  There design is simple and therefore less likely to break down and if you do have a problem they are easier to repair.

When you need electric heat on a construction job site you need a heater that is built to handle years of abuse.  Look for heating elements that are made of copper and coated in Magnesium, then enclosed in a stainless steel jacket.  Find one with a high quality sealed blower motor and a rugged steel powder coated housing.  Make sure they have some type of overheat and tip over protection.

Electric heat is capable of a very quick and high temperature rise as long as you have an industrial-grade fan to distribute the air though the room you are heating.  Electric heaters come in different sizes and run on different voltages depending on the wattage rating.

Patron makes 4 different size Portable Electric Heaters for the professional.

E 1.5 - 5,100 BTU/hr 116 CFM air flow
E 3 - 10,200 BTU/hr 205 CFM air flow
E 9 - 30,700 BTU/hr 350 CFM air flow
 

New this season is the Patron E 6  20,500 BTU/hr 250 CFM air flow

With the Patron line of portable electric heaters you should be able to match all your heating needs. 

Monday, December 3, 2012

FAQ for Construction Heaters

  1. How do I calculate the heat requirements for my job site?
     
    Use this formula:
    Heat required = cubic feet of an area (x) temperature rise (x) .133

    Example:
    Area needling heat is 80' (length) (x) 80' (width) (x) 12' (height) = 76,800 cubic ft 
    Temperature rise = 60 degrees F

    76,800 cubic ft (x) 60 degrees F = 4,608,000
    4,608,000 (x) .133 = 612,864 BTU per hour
     
    Refer to the manufacturer to find a construction heater or heaters rated to handle that load.
     
  2. What size propane gas supply cylinder is recommended for use on construction heaters?

    Most heaters can operate off of smaller cylinders such as 20#, 30# or 50# capacity.  The problem that arises is the heater can use the vapor at a faster rate than the cylinder will supply.  Which causes the heater to supply a lower blower outlet temperature and may eventually shut down.  To eliminate this problem I recommend using 100# cylinders wherever possible.  You may even need to have several 100# cylinders manifolded together or even use a larger tank depending on the heat load of the installation and temperature.  Consult your local propane gas supplier for recommendations.
  3. How long will a 100# cylinder last?
    It depends on a couple factors:
    The amount of gas that the heater uses per hour.
    Air temperature surrounding the gas supply container
    Heaters with larger heat outputs consume more gas per hour than heaters with smaller outputs.  Also the gas supply container will supply less vapor as the temperature drops.  At some point the gas container will begin to develop a frost buildup at the lower portion of its shell which indicates that the container is getting near the low limits of its ability to supply proper gas supply pressure. 
  4. How do I determine how much gas my construction heater will use over one hour if it continually runs?

    Natural Gas Heaters:
    Divide the output of the heater by the BTU's in one cubic foot of natural gas.
    Example: 365,000 BTUH / 1000 = 365 cubic feet of natural gas per hour

    LP Gas Heaters
    a) To determine gas consumption in pounds per hour:
    Divide the output of the heater by the BTU's in one pound of LP gas
    Example: 155,000 BTUH / 21,591 = 7.2 pounds per hour

    b) To determine gas consumption in gallons per hour of LP gas.
    Divide the gas consumption in pounds per hour of LP gas by the pounds of LP gas per gallon.
    Example: 7.2 pounds per hour gas consumption / 4.24 pounds per gallon = 1.7 gallons per hour
  5. Can I use a construction heater to heat my shop of garage?

    Maybe - Depending on the type of heater you are using.  Most construction heaters are non-vented and are designed specifically for the heating of buildings under construction, alteration, or repair.  These are typically areas where air exchange is established to promote proper gas combustion within the heater.  If the heater is used in a tighter structure without proper air exchange, potentially dangerous gases such as carbon dioxide will accumulate.

    If you choose a Indirect heater with a heat exchanger that can be vented to the outside then using it in a shop or garage can work.  Always check with the manufacturer before using it in an enclosed area.
  6. My eyes water and throat burns a short time after using the heater.  What is the problem?

    The problem could be attributable to any of the following conditions:
    a) Poor ventilation at the job site which contributes to poor gas combustion.  Introduction of more fresh air is needed.
    b) Poor gas pressure to the inlet of the heater.  Gas pressure will need to be checked by a qualified gas heater service person.  The heater's data plate refers to proper inlet and burner manifold pressures. 
    c) The heater is burning contaminants that are in the air which is used for combustion.  Examples would be parts cleaning solvents, paints, etc.
  7. My heater's burner flame is yellow and gives off a strong gassy smell.  What's wrong?

    Check these things:
    a) Proper gas pressure to the heater (refer to the heater's data plate)
    b) Obstructions in the burner casting, gas manifold or plugged burner orifice.  Clean out the obstruction.
    c) Do you have the proper supply of fresh air?
  8. My forced air heater sparks, but will not ignite.

    Check the following:
    a) Low fuel gas supply pressure
    b) Tank valve not completely open
    c) Tank valve opened too quickly, causing lock-up in excess flow valve in regulator, close tank valve and wait 5 minutes, then reopen the tank valve
    d) Defective gas control valve