Friday, August 30, 2013

Hytopz is Closing after 35 Years!

 

After 35 Years

Hytopz is Closing Their Doors

 

We would like to thank all of our customers for their support through the years!

 

As of August 20th, we are no longer renting our equipment, and are now in the process of selling our showroom & warehouse inventory of ladders, safety equipment, scaffold, rope etc. at reduced prices through September 24th.


Final Auction

Thursday October 17, 2013
10:00am

Where

Hytopz
7207 E Broadway Avenue
Spokane Valley, WA 99212

 

Preview Equipment 8-4 Wednesday, October 16th


For More Information Go To Hytopz.com

Friday, July 5, 2013

Donning a Full Body Harness



As long as I have been teaching Aerial Work Platform training I almost always have to spend time with some of my students to help them properly fit or "Don" a full body harness.

There are lots of manufactures that have lots of different types of harnesses on the market and I always suggest that you contact the company that made the harness you are using and follow their instructions.

With that said, I will explain the basic steps with "Donning" any full body harness.

Donning the Harness

Before you begin, your first priority is to inspect the harness.

  1. Lift the harness with the dorsal (back) D-ring where you will attach your lanyard.  Give the harness a shake to ensure the straps fall into place without tangling.
    .
  2. Unfasten all the buckles.
    (If you are unfamiliar with a type of buckle contact the manufacturer)
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  3. Slip the harness over your arms and onto your shoulders.  Make certain the straps are not tangled and hang freely and the dorsal D-ring is between your shoulder blades on your back.
    .
  4. Reach between your legs and grab either the left or right leg strap and connect it to the corresponding buckle then repeat the procedure with the other leg.  Make sure you do not twist the webbing.  Tension the leg straps so they fit snug but will not constrict your range of motion.
    .
  5. Attach the chest strap buckle and adjust it so that it is approximately 6-inches below the top of your shoulders and snug.
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  6. Now take a few steps and make any adjustments to the harness so that it is still snug but not constricting your range of motion.Tuck away any excess strapping by passing it through the loop keepers on each strap.

Removing the Harness
  1. You want to unbuckle the leg straps first while leaving the chest strap for last.  After you unbuckle the chest strap, slide the harness off your shoulders.
  2. Re-buckle all the buckles to keep them from tangling the harness when you store it.
Store the harness in a cool, dry and clean place out of direct sunlight.  Avoid areas where heat, moisture, light, oil and chemicals or their vapors my be present.





 Hytopz carries a full line of safety equipment.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Scaffolding

Scaffolding seems to be one of the most versatile and inexpensive ways to access job locations that are difficult to get to because of obstructions.  Most of the time it is simple to design and erect but when you have odd or unusual circumstances you can always use the experience and expertise of your local scaffold supplier.  (Spokane, WA - Hytopz)

With the infinite number of situations where scaffolding can be used it can be intimidating to understand the easiest and most productive type of scaffolding to use.  Here is a list of some of the most common types of scaffolding available for sale or rent.

  • Steel Frame Scaffold
  • Aluminum Frame Scaffold
  • System Scaffold
  • Pump Jack Scaffold (Aluminum or Wood)
  • Tube & Clamp Scaffold
  • Shoring Frames
  • Multipurpose & Mobile Work Platforms
  • Swing Stage Scaffold
  • Bridge Scaffold
  • Wall Scaffold
  • Ladder Jack Scaffold
  • Planks; Stages
Just about every sub-contractor has or will use scaffolding in their career.  It is very safe to use as long as you have a qualified and competent person involved with the erection and day to day safety checks. 

Always check the "Code of Safe Practices" for whatever type of scaffolding you may be using.


Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Training Aerial Work Platform (AWP) Operators


I think everyone would agree that aerial work platforms are the safest way to get personnel up to a work area above 10 feet.  That statement also assumes that the person operating the AWP is properly trained.

The interesting thing about Boom Lifts, Scissor Lifts and other AWP from all other equipment you might encounter on a construction site is that the operators of this equipment are there to perform some other job.  They are electrical workers, welders, painters, plumbers, carpenters, insulators and almost any job that it takes to construct or remodel a building.  They use AWP to access an area where they can do their jobs.  Running or operating the equipment to get them there is secondary.

Other equipment like a crane, telehandler, backhoe or excavator usually have an operator that is assigned the job to run that equipment.  They are using the equipment to perform their job.  To accomplish a specific task.

AWP operators are only using it to access the area so they can perform the specific task they were assigned.  They might only use this equipment infrequently and therefore not spend a lot of time operating it.  The less time spent operating the equipment the longer it takes to be proficient running it.

Taking the time to go through a AWP training class not only speeds up the time to get proficient it also exposes the operator to the standards and regulations they are required to know.

One interesting statistic about AWP is that only 1 percent of all the accidents involve aerial work platforms but they account for up to 8 percent of the claims. 


Thursday, December 6, 2012

Patron Electric Portable Heaters

For Heavy Duty and Professional Use


There are many reasons why you would want to use an electric heater on a job site.  You have no exhaust or ventilation issues to deal with.  You also never need to clean up fuel spills or have fuel odors in the area you are working.  Electric heaters are 100% efficient and environmentally GREEN.  There design is simple and therefore less likely to break down and if you do have a problem they are easier to repair.

When you need electric heat on a construction job site you need a heater that is built to handle years of abuse.  Look for heating elements that are made of copper and coated in Magnesium, then enclosed in a stainless steel jacket.  Find one with a high quality sealed blower motor and a rugged steel powder coated housing.  Make sure they have some type of overheat and tip over protection.

Electric heat is capable of a very quick and high temperature rise as long as you have an industrial-grade fan to distribute the air though the room you are heating.  Electric heaters come in different sizes and run on different voltages depending on the wattage rating.

Patron makes 4 different size Portable Electric Heaters for the professional.

E 1.5 - 5,100 BTU/hr 116 CFM air flow
E 3 - 10,200 BTU/hr 205 CFM air flow
E 9 - 30,700 BTU/hr 350 CFM air flow
 

New this season is the Patron E 6  20,500 BTU/hr 250 CFM air flow

With the Patron line of portable electric heaters you should be able to match all your heating needs. 

Monday, December 3, 2012

FAQ for Construction Heaters

  1. How do I calculate the heat requirements for my job site?
     
    Use this formula:
    Heat required = cubic feet of an area (x) temperature rise (x) .133

    Example:
    Area needling heat is 80' (length) (x) 80' (width) (x) 12' (height) = 76,800 cubic ft 
    Temperature rise = 60 degrees F

    76,800 cubic ft (x) 60 degrees F = 4,608,000
    4,608,000 (x) .133 = 612,864 BTU per hour
     
    Refer to the manufacturer to find a construction heater or heaters rated to handle that load.
     
  2. What size propane gas supply cylinder is recommended for use on construction heaters?

    Most heaters can operate off of smaller cylinders such as 20#, 30# or 50# capacity.  The problem that arises is the heater can use the vapor at a faster rate than the cylinder will supply.  Which causes the heater to supply a lower blower outlet temperature and may eventually shut down.  To eliminate this problem I recommend using 100# cylinders wherever possible.  You may even need to have several 100# cylinders manifolded together or even use a larger tank depending on the heat load of the installation and temperature.  Consult your local propane gas supplier for recommendations.
  3. How long will a 100# cylinder last?
    It depends on a couple factors:
    The amount of gas that the heater uses per hour.
    Air temperature surrounding the gas supply container
    Heaters with larger heat outputs consume more gas per hour than heaters with smaller outputs.  Also the gas supply container will supply less vapor as the temperature drops.  At some point the gas container will begin to develop a frost buildup at the lower portion of its shell which indicates that the container is getting near the low limits of its ability to supply proper gas supply pressure. 
  4. How do I determine how much gas my construction heater will use over one hour if it continually runs?

    Natural Gas Heaters:
    Divide the output of the heater by the BTU's in one cubic foot of natural gas.
    Example: 365,000 BTUH / 1000 = 365 cubic feet of natural gas per hour

    LP Gas Heaters
    a) To determine gas consumption in pounds per hour:
    Divide the output of the heater by the BTU's in one pound of LP gas
    Example: 155,000 BTUH / 21,591 = 7.2 pounds per hour

    b) To determine gas consumption in gallons per hour of LP gas.
    Divide the gas consumption in pounds per hour of LP gas by the pounds of LP gas per gallon.
    Example: 7.2 pounds per hour gas consumption / 4.24 pounds per gallon = 1.7 gallons per hour
  5. Can I use a construction heater to heat my shop of garage?

    Maybe - Depending on the type of heater you are using.  Most construction heaters are non-vented and are designed specifically for the heating of buildings under construction, alteration, or repair.  These are typically areas where air exchange is established to promote proper gas combustion within the heater.  If the heater is used in a tighter structure without proper air exchange, potentially dangerous gases such as carbon dioxide will accumulate.

    If you choose a Indirect heater with a heat exchanger that can be vented to the outside then using it in a shop or garage can work.  Always check with the manufacturer before using it in an enclosed area.
  6. My eyes water and throat burns a short time after using the heater.  What is the problem?

    The problem could be attributable to any of the following conditions:
    a) Poor ventilation at the job site which contributes to poor gas combustion.  Introduction of more fresh air is needed.
    b) Poor gas pressure to the inlet of the heater.  Gas pressure will need to be checked by a qualified gas heater service person.  The heater's data plate refers to proper inlet and burner manifold pressures. 
    c) The heater is burning contaminants that are in the air which is used for combustion.  Examples would be parts cleaning solvents, paints, etc.
  7. My heater's burner flame is yellow and gives off a strong gassy smell.  What's wrong?

    Check these things:
    a) Proper gas pressure to the heater (refer to the heater's data plate)
    b) Obstructions in the burner casting, gas manifold or plugged burner orifice.  Clean out the obstruction.
    c) Do you have the proper supply of fresh air?
  8. My forced air heater sparks, but will not ignite.

    Check the following:
    a) Low fuel gas supply pressure
    b) Tank valve not completely open
    c) Tank valve opened too quickly, causing lock-up in excess flow valve in regulator, close tank valve and wait 5 minutes, then reopen the tank valve
    d) Defective gas control valve 

Friday, November 30, 2012

Direct and Indirect Heating Systems

Since I have been blogging about portable heating systems I might as well keep it going. 

One question that keeps popping up when people talk about portable heating systems is
 Direct Fired and Indirect Fired Heaters. 

A Direct Fired Heater heats the air by a flame that is produced by burning some type of fuel. (Natural gas; Propane, Kerosene or Diesel)  Usually there is a fan to move the air through a tube or cylinder where this flame is contained.  These types of heaters are almost 100% efficient and therefore very cost effective.

An Indirect Fired Heater also heats air by a flame that is produced by burning some type of fuel. (Natural gas; Propane, Kerosene or Diesel)  There is a fan to move the air through a tube or cylinder where a heat exchanger is located.  This heat exchanger is where the flame is contained and has a port where the exhaust can be vented away from the area you are heating.  These types of heaters are not as efficient but are still very good.

The important thing to remember is you need to match the correct type of heater to your particlar application.